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Brad’s British Cars

Brad’s British Cars can service, repair & restore your MG, Triumph, Austin Healey, Sunbeam & most British marquees.

Services/tech tips

 & detailing Tips

We do most mechanical work from engine tune-ups to rebuilds, to suspension work, bushings, springs etc.  We even work on some of the early Bosch fuel injection systems. 

E-mail:  bwik2@sc.rr.com

Mechanical Work

We can repair or restore the complete interior of your car; replace the foam in your seats, the diaphragms  and  install new covers, interior door panels, carpet, dashes etc. 

E-mail:  bwik2@sc.rr.com


Top, boot covers, and tonneau cover  installation.  We clean and repaint your bows & header and replace seal and bow straps where required.

E-mail:  bwik2@sc.rr.com

Top Replacement

We also can also refurbish or restore you car. The car pictured shows an MG that was stripped down and ready to paint.


E-mail:  bwik2@sc.rr.com

British Sports Car

Repairs & Restoration

Detailing and Tool Tips

Cleaning up scratches in plastic parts

Are the plastic parts on your car starting to look a little scratched and dingy? When I refer to plastic parts I am not referring to the flexible plastic such as the windows in the hood/soft top. I am referring to the hard plastic parts that have a  smooth surface (no grain in the material and NOT painted). I have found that a product from Mother’s called “Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish” works well on those surfaces. I first clean the part with a little soap and water, then I put a dab of Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish on a clean terry cloth. I use a back and forth motion across the surface to polish out the small scratches (don’t go in a circular motion) then I buff out with a clean microfiber towel.  I am always amazed at the results. I have found that it works well on plastic tail light lenses and some interior gage lens, etc. ALWAYS test a small area first, preferably somewhere it won’t be seen. This is my method and it may not work for you.  

I take no responsibility for any damage that you might cause trying any of my methods.


A tool that I have found very useful

There are several companies out there that sell this product. The tool is a ratchet wrench that the handle ratchets and twists to turn the socket.  I was on the road in my Triumph and noticed a slight leak on the radiator hose. The hose was in a location that I was unable to get a screw driver or nut driver on the head of the clamp.  I had this ratchet wrench and a socket with me that would fit the head of the screw on the clamp. I worked my hands and wrench up into the tight spot and got the socket on the screw. I didn’t have any area for the handle to swing so I twisted the handle on the wrench and it tightened the clamp down without any trouble.  I now always carry one of these ratchet wrenches with me with an assortment of sockets.


Have you pulled your wire wheels lately?

Years ago I became a proud of a 1969 Jaguar E-Type. I went through changing out all the fluids and flushing the coolant system as I always do.  I was in the process of checking the brakes pads and found to my amazement that a beautiful chrome wire wheel wouldn’t come off one of the hubs. After days of penetrating oil, loosing the knock-off and rolling the car around I finally had to resort to heat. To make a long story short the only heat that worked was from the torch cutting that gorgeous wheel off the hub. The prior owner had neglected to ever pull the wheels and grease the splines. This is what prompted me to warn you that this can really happen if you neglect your wheels.

When I pull wire wheels I jack up the car and put jack stands at appropriate locations to ensure that it is safe to work around. I then pull the knock-off nut and wheel and proceed to clean the splines with a brass wire brush and mineral spirits. I thoroughly inspect the splines on both the wheel and hub for wear. If the splines check-out okay, I clean the backside of the wheel to get all the grease off the wheel (I NEVER touch the chrome or any painted areas with the wire brush).  I now smear some silicone on the inside of the spokes of the wheel so grease won’t penetrate through to the outside of the wheel. By doing the above it will help with normal clean-up in the future. Now the important part comes:  use a good grade of wheel bearing grease or anti-seize on both the hub and wheel splines (I like anti-seize, but the books say grease).  Now slide the wheel back onto the hub and smear a little grease on the knock-offs and tighten them back down.

Please remember to keep those splines lubed and you won’t have the same painful experience I had.

This method has worked for me for years but is only my opinion. 

(If you are at all unsure, always follow the directions that are spelled out in your manual!) 

Aren’t Chrome Wire Wheels Beautiful?

Keep them lubed and clean and you should have years of enjoyment from your wire wheels.

We pour the fun back into

British Sports Cars!

Working to keep British Sports Cars fun and alive for you! Remember “Restore, Don’t Crush”!


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